2021 Binondo Foodtrip: A Taste of the Old Normal
There’s nothing quite like the experience of a good meal these days. One of the things we weren’t able to do during the height of the quarantine lockdowns was to eat out. Fortunately, more and more places are re-opening. Following months of isolation, this 2021 Binondo Foodtrip is an eye opener – to a life we once had, and our resilience to adapt and preserve this integral part of our local culture.
Binondo is the world’s oldest Chinatown, and is a beloved culinary hotspot at the heart of the metro. Although some favorites have closed down, a lot of the culinary institutions in the district are still there and are actually thriving.
Food trip veterans have known for years where the best spots are. You’re not going to find a new restaurant here, as we made it a point to visit the much beloved staples of the area. However, you might be curious as to what the streets of Binondo look like in the time of the new normal.
Is it still possible to enjoy great quality Chinese food in the time of face masks and social distancing? The answer is a resounding ‘yes!’ If you were wondering, yes it’s as vibrant and colorful as ever, and yes the food is still amazing. Join us on a recent trip to Binondo!
Dumplings and Updated Safety Protocols
First off, we head towards the corner of Yuchengco and V. Tytana Streets to get our dumpling fix at Dong Bei Dumpling. The first thing you’ll notice is a queue forming outside the store.
Dong Bei is a pretty small hole-in-the-wall place that serves amazing dumplings. In the interest of safety, they chose to only allow take out. Don’t be scared about the queue, as the turnaround of people is actually quite fast. There was a steady stream of people patiently waiting outside – just walk up to the door, and the staff will take your order and give you a number.
Wait for your number to be called, and get ready to enjoy some amazing dumplings!
Dong Bei’s Steamed Dumplings (₱200 for 14 pieces) is their best seller. The filling of pork and chives is simple but satisfying. There’s also a perfect ratio of filling to wrapper – meaning you get a perfect mouthful with every bite!
It’s served with a light, garlicky dipping sauce, which compliments the dumpling nicely. Fourteen pieces for one order may sound like a lot, but trust us – you’d want to get one order for yourself.
Oyster Cake and Food Delivery Frontliners
Next up is one of Binondo’s most beloved restaurants, Sincerity Cafe and Restaurant. It’s also along Yuchengo Street, a few minutes walk from Dong Bei. It’s a full-service type of restaurant, and they serve traditional Chinese fare. However, they currently have very limited dine-in spaces. That doesn’t stop people from lining up outside though.
There are just a couple of tables inside, so most order for take-away. However, it’s interesting to note that they are available on the popular food delivery apps, and there was quite a number of food delivery frontliners waiting outside.
If you’re ordering for take-out, go inside and the staff will take your order for you. But this is after a temperature check and a squirt of hand sanitizer. Masks and face shields are required, of course.
One of Sincerity’s best-sellers is their Fried Oyster Cake (₱260 for the small serving, ₱ 300 for big). The Fried Oyster Cake is a savory pancake/omelet type of dish. It’s fried, and is glistening with oil when you get it – that’s how you know it’s good.
It has spring onions, some bean sprouts, and egg, but the rest of the cake is just a ton of oysters. It’s chewy, savory, and has a very satisfying seafood hit because of all of the fresh and succulent oysters. Really, it’s like 90% oysters and 10% everything else. If you love oysters, this is the way to go.
The hot sauce and pickled vegetables they give you really help in tempering the savory-ness of the fried oyster cake. Honestly, the small serving is good for 2-3 people. But go on, have it on your own for lunch, and you’ll be full for the rest of the day.
Fried Siopao and More Lines
The next stop in this 2021 Binondo Foodtrip is on Ongpin Street, to experience one of the most beloved establishments in the area – Shanghai Fried Siopao.
This little corner stall is one of the originals in Binondo. They started the whole “toasted siopao” craze in the 80’s, and they’re still at it today. People know that they’re the best, and they’re willing to wait in line for it. At one point, it started raining, and everyone just took out their umbrellas and waited patiently for their turn to get some siopao.
It was just a tiny, nondescript store before, with an ordinary sign of “Shanghai Fried Siopao” in big, bold red letters and nothing else. It has since gained more and more popularity for their amazing pork buns, and you can see it from the evolution of their storefront. What’s amazing is that the original sign is still there, beside some reviews from YouTubers who absolutely love their product.
You’ll understand their success once you take a bite of their siopao. Their signature Fried Siopao (₱30 per piece) is actually quite smaller than those you find elsewhere, but it’s worth it.
Heads up, be careful because they give it to you straight from their steamer and it’s piping hot. The bottom is beautifully toasted, and provides an amazing contrast to the very light and pillow-y siopao dough.
The ratio of bun to filling is perfect. You don’t end up with just a piece of bread that you throw away halfway through. You get a little bit of the filling with every bite. The filling itself is perfectly cooked, made with a lot of pork and a little bit of chives. It’s meaty and hearty, and overall very satisfying. They really know what they’re doing with this one.
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Binondo’s “Fast Food” and an even longer queue
Finally, we visited Wai Ying Fastfood, another of the culinary institutions in Binondo. They have different branches around Binondo and Divisoria, but we went to the one in Benavidez Street. We were met with an even longer queue outside of the restaurant – which seems to be the recurring theme of this 2021 Binondo Foodtrip.
This was actually the first restaurant we wanted to check out, but decided to go to the others first because of the queue. However, two hours and three restaurants later, the length of the line remained the same.
Wai Ying’s popularity is due to the fact that it serves up authentic Chinese food for very reasonable prices. They have always been part of the must-visit restaurants in Binondo, and their popularity shows no signs of waning.
You can’t go wrong with some Chinese food staples – and Wai Ying just does it right. The Beef Mami (₱180) was comforting and familiar. You get a big bowl of noodles cooked perfectly. The beef portion is generous, and is soft and flavorful. It’s standard mami fare done right – if you’re craving for authentic beef mami, this really hits the spot.
The Hakaw (₱ 130 for 4 pieces) is packed with just shrimp – they don’t scrimp on it like other dimsum places. It doesn’t fall apart and is perfectly cooked, with the paper-thin wrapper holding up quite well. The chili garlic is excellent, with just the right amount of heat.
The Beancurd Roll (₱100) is another masterclass in dimsum. It shows you that dimsum can be excellent in the hands of those who know what they’re doing. It’s generously stuffed with pork and shrimp, with tiny bits of carrots and other greens. The beancurd itself has a very springy texture, like a thick, chewy skin. The sauce is light but flavorful, and goes great with the savory roll – no need for soy sauce or anything else for this one!
Satisfying Chinese Food and our Desire to Dine Together
We decided to bite the bullet and queue up for Wai Ying despite spending hours roaming around Binondo. It actually gave us the perfect opportunity to observe the crowd. In keeping up with the safety protocols of the government, Wai Ying is operating at a limited capacity, so they limit the number of people inside the restaurant. Most people in line were small groups of 2 -3, who were waiting patiently to get their authentic Chinese food fix.
Some were there on a date; it’s the day before Valentine’s, after all. Some were just a group of friends who, based on their animated conversations, hadn’t seen each other for months (forgive us for eavesdropping!). There was another group of Chinese people who spoke entirely in Chinese, which is always a good sign of a restaurant’s authenticity. Some looked like students, some like working professionals on a break.
We spent almost an hour in line, as they would only let people in once those inside were done. What bound us all together was a desire for delicious, authentic Chinese food. And if you’ve made it this far, you can probably tell that we got exactly what we wanted.
This 2021 Binondo Foodtrip was the perfect taste of the old normal. It’s wonderful to see that this huge part of our culture remains intact even after the challenges of the pandemic. Isn’t it amazing how these businesses have adapted to ensure we keep safe, while still ensuring we enjoy the good things that make life worth living?